Copper Vineleaf waterFall.jpg



Summary and in-depth information about fountain care and the varied aspects related to it. 

(For in-depth information please scroll down)

Online Copy of Copper Fountain Care Instructions:


[Safety: Please read the Manufacturers Pump Information too. I carry and highly prefer their brand but they are a separate company.]

  • Pump comes attached under copper pump cover at bottom bowl. Fill up near the bowl rim and plug in.

  • For best results use only distilled water

  • Fill up near bowl rim and plug in

  • Pump comes attached under copper pump cover at bottom bowl.

  • Using only distilled water in it is highly recommended. It is mineral free and very pure so there are no sediments left behind from evaporation that can build up in the water bowl.  See more in-depth water type options and water care info on the fountain care page.)

  • Always keep fountain pump submerged. Running dry can hurt the motor. Fnt. Plug is the "On/Off Switch" (See options for switches on the pump page online)

  • A copper pump cover is included. If it comes free in shipping, use it by replacing it over the pump.

  • Small Fntn. 40 GPH/50oz., Medium Fntn. 70 GPH./80oz., Lg. Table/Floor Fntn. 90-150 GPH Range, 1-2 Gallon Water Vol. (Fill up water near the bowl rim as in photos)

  • Thank you for your business! Enjoy your fountain! Copper Phoenix Art, Queen Creek, Az.



Sculpture or other copper art decor that is NOT a fountain, only needs (if anything at all) occasional dusting if inside or under a covered area outside.
A soft dry or damp cloth or other chemical free duster (such as a "feather duster") is all that is needed. 

While indoors or covered areas there is virtually no effect on the art, in very extreme conditions, if copper sculpture is outdoors but not under a covered area, dusting will help, but depending on your climate, if it is extremely moist with very high precipitation landing on your artwork on regular basis, after some years, (which varies considerably, perhaps 2-20 years) your art may begin to lose the protective gloss metal finish coat, and then start to naturally oxidize or develop patina. If this is not desired, and you see the finish deteriorating in any way, you can reseal the art with spray-on metal finish, or a brush-on metal finish, in either flat or semi-gloss or full gloss mixtures, and this will help further protect the orange-like copper tones.


Copper fountains and art can last for many years - decades and more, so the information on Copper Care is comprehensive and varied, and may or may not be needed, but is designed to help with most situations that could arise depending on how a fountain is cared for, or what particular situation may be applicable with a fountain in the short and long term use of having one. I would rather anyone had this and not need it, than need it and not have it, so it it here in detailed form.

​<Please note: These aspects can also be very helpful with any other type of fountain, whether it is Copper or Not.>

 Quality control system: Before ever shipping, each fountain is individually tested in all regards, (i.e. leaks, function in sound and appearance) and each aspect is maximized for efficiency.

<This information is also broken up into topic segments followed by the title of the particular point of interest. e.g., start-up, water type, ect...>


It's as easy as filling up and plugging in. (If your fountain does not start at all, please see below at #10 for Pump Priming/Trouble shooting.)


If only distilled water is used in fountains then they become virtually maintenance and carefree water features and are very easy to care for that way for both short and long-term use. That is the simplest and best way to go and I thoroughly recommend it. If starting out that way, the fountains work, last and evolve in the best ways possible, making it easier to have and own.
If you are using only Distilled water in it, then you rarely have to clean it out or empty it. Add water as needed. Distilled water is mineral free and very pure so there are no sediments left behind from evaporation that can build up in the water bowl.

Emptying and Cleaning: With distilled water being used long term such as a year or two later, the flow of the water slowly wears down the gloss finish. If you see the finish coming off (which can be hard to discern sometimes as it blends with the water, then you'll want to empty it, rinse it and maybe slightly wipe it out it and start over again with new distilled water. Once that layer of finish where the water is (and flows) is gone, its not something you ever have to do again. The finish is also replaced with the most beautiful patina possible.

2) If not using distilled water, then bottled drinking water is a great choice too and a little less in cost to buy. (Avoid using tap water if at all possible). However bottled drinking water it is not as pure as distilled, but is a very good alternative to it, and can achieve similar results while also being less in maintenance. I highly recommend getting "Protec Fountain Scale and Stain Remover" [ is a good place to find it] and adding it to the water monthly in one very small dose as is directed by the Protec Solution. Then after using "Protec" for about "2-3 months" rinse out your fountain under a sink or other spot and start over.

<Protec is an animal friendly product. Whatever treatment you decide to use for your fountain (if pets are a relevant concern) please read the labels and make sure the product is "animal friendly" and/or safe for pets, so they are not hurt by any undesired chemicals.>

<The "2-3 month" time frame of rinsing it out is optional and a good guideline to follow, but depending on where you set your fountain and how often its run (along with other varying things, such as water type used) you can rinse and add water as you feel is necessary. (At the least keep your pump under water, and do not let it run dry as this can burn out your pump motor!) The estimate of "rinsing time" and chosen "water type" will not hurt your fountain but can decrease or increase the running/operating costs of it.>

3) With regular tap water use, the same method as described above in R.O. Water/Bottled Drinking Water can be used, but you may need to rinse it more often. Water quality can vary across the country. So while using Protec in tap can work very well, I recommend avoiding it entirely and not using tap water at all - if possible - and this will keep your fountain looking prettiest.

e.g. Tap water from in Arizona can turn your (any different fountain material - not just copper) white in one year. When it is dry and not running this mineral deposit becomes translucent and hard to notice. This builds slowly over time (depending on the frequency of use) and is based on individual taste, since this may not be an aesthetic concern or consideration for you, since they can still be attractive this way. However, I prefer them with out any mineral deposits, and I do not want anyone with a sudden surprise when one day it is very noticeably coated with lime, calcium and other minerals! (This is also true for any decorative water fountain no matter which material it is constructed of! Arizona tap water can be very tough!)

AlGAE and/or MICROBES, and in regard to other Creatures:

Algae is very rare, but if it ever develops use an algaecide to clear it up. "Fountec Algaecide and Clarifier" is great brand, and available online. Once the gloss metal finish has been removed by the natural flow of the water, the natural properties of copper will take over far more strongly, and then the possibility of algae or other microbes developing in your fountain will dramatically decrease - if it happens at all! Fish and plants will not survive long in a pure copper fountain, so don't add them to it!

Copper has very strong antimicrobial properties that deter (and can prevent) microorganism growth such as algae, which can turn other fountain materials themselves scummy or cloudy while adding the green blooms to the surfaces. While it's far less likely with copper, if you encounter it, it's a quick and relatively inexpensive fix. If the water gets cloudy you can add a little bit of a product called "Fountain Clear" to it, and it'll help keep the water more sparkly. Depending on the water volume in a fountain it only takes a very small, quite minute amount to work, such as a couple drops per month or so based on a small table. This can be gauged accordingly by starting out with small amounts even in larger fountains and adjusted as need be. The product has informative tables for such solution and water volume ratios. (Using as little as possible is not only the best thing to do but it will also let you get the most for your purchase from this product).

This and other similar products can be found online and may be available on Etsy too, but for immediate convenience and info I add this link for specifics:

Also, this stuff comes in smaller 8 ounce bottles too.

For wild animals and pets: The company says it's animal and bird safe and it is, and I think it's great stuff, however and it's very important to know that a little tiny amount can go a very long way, so please do beware cause Fountec or Protec in heavy doses, (like most things including table salt) can be toxic for any animal to ingest, so keep it to a very minimal amount so it's properly diluted in the water becoming safe to use. I'm not recommending it for animals to drink from, but if following the companies directions well and slowly gauging what tiny amounts you may need for your particular fountain it can work very well and still be bird and critter safe. Basically I would start with a tiny drop (if your fountain a large table size) and see how it goes in a couple days and then add more tiny amounts as needed to clear it up.

(Much more info in relation to Pets and Animals drinking from fountains can be found here too after the basic fountain care info) 


​As the acrylic gloss finish degrades (this can take approx. 1-2 years and greatly varies on use placement/season when indoor or outdoor, and chosen water type) empty the bowl, and wipe out finish with a soft cotton cloth, rinse out and start the fountain again. (This finish removal process is gradual/variable but when completed, it is not needed to do again: the finish is replaced with patina)


4) These pump's are made to operate only when fully submerged. The pump placement (as a standard in all fountains I make) is designed so the pump can be fully submerged, with the pump's water intake at the lowest point possible in the bottom of the bowl, to allow it to function for the longest duration possible before water has to be added. (Supplier for replacement water pumps included at the end of this section)

Do not let the pump operate if it is dry! (See #10 for more info.) This can hurt or break your pump motor. You can monitor your fountain water level by sight, sound (the louder it gets the lower the water is overall) and/or by touch with your hand. This varies greatly depending on where it's placed, season of the year, and how often it is run. On average about 16 ounces per week indoors can be lost per six (6) hour running period, but again, that can vary by great degrees so please monitor it and you'll determine what is best for you and your fountain.

Most fountain pumps in general do not have "on/off" switches but those pump types can be readily found elsewhere and adapted to these. The included pumps with the fountain's do not have "on/off" switches on them. The cord plug itself is the "on/off" switch. I do not carry other models with cord switches, ect. but they can be purchased separately online from various suppliers.
Alternative suggestions for on/off switches are are: finding a pump with a built-in power switch online or in a retail store; extension cords can be bought with switches on the cords and adapted to the pumps; power strips can be used for plugging the fountain into; some electric outlets are internally connected to light switches on walls and if convenient can be used; timers for electric outlets can be used as well to synchronize a desired time of fountain use, which will automatically turn on and off for the duration set. (See Pump page for more details).


5) <Again: Before ever shipping each fountain is individually tested in all regards, (i.e. leaks, function in sound and appearance) and each aspect is maximized for efficiency resulting in very little loss of water from the fountain.>

In the case where tiny water drops escape from the bowl (they usually evaporate before noticed) avoid placing on porous surfaces or use a mat over surface to guard against it.

Similarly, though the drops are tiny and variably infrequent, it's also recommend to avoid having your fountain near electronic devices where the water can potentially damage any sensitive equipment.

Adjusting Water Flow: can be done safely while the fountain is running, but please use caution: The pump valve will control water flow making it quieter or softer in water flow and reduce very tiny drops. Directing the lowest cup upward (so it rests on a more even plane) will greatly reduce the possibility of many tiny drops getting outside of the bowl area - however the downside is the fountain can lose some of it's pretty sound. Adjusting the lowest cup can be accomplished by holding firmly (and safely) with thumb on top and fingers underneath, at the braze/solder point where the wire connects to the "water leaf cup", and then tilt up or down as is your preference per sound and flow.

-Idea/suggestions for this are decorative kitchen/bath mats (clear ones can allow the surface aesthetics to still show through) and/or some automotive mats (which are non-stick for preventing slipping near oils or other liquids with very low or high viscosity) work well on larger pieces for floor areas.

7) Pump Cover: Included with your fountain is a decorative copper pump cover. It has only aesthetic value. It is a separate piece from the fountain. It can be jostled during shipping. It sits in a "U" shape over the pump with the concave side down over and surrounding the pump. (Please see example below or other pictures on the site for further examples.)

8) There is no on/off switch on the pump models included with fountains, so the plug is the "on/off switch".
<Ideas/suggestions: Purchase a wall "plug-in" electric outlet timer or an extension cord with a hand switch built into it for "on" and "off", or use a wall switch connected to an electrical outlet (like a light switch but to a plug) or a small power strip to put the pump's electric plug into and the strips power switch can substitute as an on/off switch. (See pump page for more details and specifics)


9) Store dry indoors or outdoors. Adding a cover to it can prevent dust or other debri from accumulating. 

10) Initial Start-up/Prime the Pump/Vacation Mode (i.e. or after not using the fountain for some time) and when starting up from a dry bowl: if the water does not flow in a timely manner, you may have to "Prime the Pump" and here is some preliminary information on Priming followed by the steps for it:

Pump Priming Purpose:
<Priming relieves pressure so it can run normally; i.e. even though the pump is "on" electrically, it does not have enough energy do to inner air pressure from the outer water surrounding the pump to force the impeller to rotate and pull the water upward. When it was plugged in if you could hear or feel the vibration of the motor but no water is coming out the spout, then that is a good sign of it needing to be primed. >

Adjustable Flow Valve/Gate:

I reccommend keeping pumps on the maximum setting for optimal flow and usage, but they can be turned down a little if desired or preferred sicne they have an adjustable flow built into the pumps. It can be found by: There is a switch on the side of the pump where a plastic screen is located, which is also where the pump's water intake is, and it has a plus and minus sign to adjust the water flow. It has a little sluice gate behind that switch, and for the small size fountain it should be all the way open to the plus side. While unlikely it could have been jostled during transit, so you may want to peek before priming because if it is set to low it makes priming harder. You can adjust later if you want though I recommend keeping it on high speed for optimum flow and sound.

Copper Pump Cover:

The copper pump cover is a separate part and bent in a U-shape around the pump housing, pump hose and copper pipe/tube inlet. It can be slightly bent/pulled apart and then pulled off of the pump.

These steps will prime it:

A) Unplug fountain. Pull/wiggle the entire pump and pump hose Outlet in unison off of the copper water Inlet pipe.

B) Then leave the pump disconnected in the bowl and leave it fully submerged. Plug it back in. After some moments air bubbles should be expelled from the pump, and replaced by the steady clear flow of the water.

C) Unplug the fountain. Now take the clear hose (while keeping the pump housing fully submerged or it won't work) and put it back over copper water Inlet pipe. (There is a screen area where the water intake is which is denoted by diagonal lines over horizontal lines and this area has to stay submerged while hooking it back up to the fountain).

Once the clear hose is back over the copper pipe inlet on the fountain you can plug it back in and the water should run pretty quickly, though it may be slow at first but in about ten seconds or so it should be operating. If so, you're done priming it and can put the copper decorative pump cover back in place and use your fountain as normal.

If "Pump Priming" Does Not Work, try this:

A) The impeller inside the fountain may be stuck in place; there are multiple reasons for that, debri, dust, ect... Make sure the pump is UNPLUGGED and then take it out. Now, check to see if any debris is blocking or obstructing the intake Screen Filter and remove if need be - which can be done by hand wiping the dust or other stuff off of it. Remove the Screen Filter (which is a rectangular shape with intersecting diagonal lines) over the water flow Sluice (or gate) that controls water intake into the pump.

<Remember: Safety first! Unplug it! See the Pump Diagram/Information Paper located in the pump box, which came with your fountain. (***If by chance you did not see it, or did not have one included, please see the bottom of this page for a picture and copy of it.)

1. Take off the Back Cover/Screen.
2. Next pull out the Seating Cover - the Regulator/Flow Gate can be left in place while taking off the Back Cover.
3. Now, use tweezers, or another small type of hand tool like Pliers and pull out the Impeller (fan-like) apparatus. Please note it is magnetized!
4. Take the remaining part of the fountain pump (the housing section where the cord still connects to it) and where the Impeller was, rinse this area out in a sink, allowing the water to flow and flush out any debris that may have been stuck in the fountain housing out of it into a sink or bowl.
5. Put the pump back together, and trying using again normally. <Please note this does not always work but is worth trying!>

B) Get a bowl of water deep enough for the pump to operate inside of, and put the pump fully submerged inside of it and turn it on. If the water flows out of the Outlet and Clear Hose, you have solved the problem and can restore the pump to your fountain. (Now you'll want to use the Pump Priming Method -written above - to make sure it starts up correctly.)

<As long as your fountain pump stays submerged, (operating or not / on or off) it is very unlikely you will run into these issues again; but this way you'll know how to fix it just in case.>


Use the Pump Size and it's GPH to determine the new size you need: 

-Small Fntn. (approximate size: 10"diameter/10x10" width, 6-14" tall)
40 GPH/50-64oz. water volume capacity
-Medium Fntn. (approx. size: 12-14"dia./12-14"x12-14" wide,
70 GPH./ 80oz. water volume capacity
-Lg. Table/Floor Fntn. (approx. size 16-22" dia. 22-30" tall)
90-150 GPH Range, 1-2 Gallon Water Volume cpactity

I highly recommend this brand and use them on most of my fountains. Staying with them is also the easiest way to change out your pump because the fitting from your old pump can sometimes be swamped to the new pump :

<Using the same brand is highly recommended though - they are great pumps! Keeping your old pump makes it easiest to replace it with a new one because the hose sizes and pump inlet will readily match the new pump from the old pump. See photo for reference help at the bottom of the page.>

Copper and extreme conditions:

Copper is mostly unaffected by extreme weather conditions, as it takes almost 1900 degrees to melt but can be annealed or altered in structure at lower temperatures around and near to 1500f degrees; inversely it takes about negative -300f before copper is fractured at the molecular level (figures approx.) so either extreme, has no negative effect on the metal of your artwork.;

Pump and Fountain in freezing conditions:
If your area is one prone to extreme freezing of water, it would be best to not leave your fountain out in an area where the water can freeze to thick layers and conditions with-in the fountain bowl and reservoir, because as the water expands, with the copper being relatively thin sheet metal and the pump plastic polymers, the frozen water can bend and or damage the copper by misshaping it and do the same thing to the pump potentially causing it damage. This would also take an extreme condition to produce these effects but you know your area and climate best and so can play this by ear so to speak and store your fountain accordingly... but just in case I hope it helps to have mentioned for people!


On/Off Switches:

Most fountain pumps do not come with an on and off switch and the plug then becomes it by default. Please read above in the Fountain Care section for details and ideas for alternatives for making the On/Off switch easier to use.

Please note DRIP LOOP for Safety and Protection against mishaps: REMEMBER: SAFETY!
<Most Pump Manufacturer's Information Brochure shows how to set-up a drip loop. If it doesn't look online or find another resource for seeing an example of a Drip Loop. With their Drip Loop (An Industry Wide Standard for all Submersible Pumps) and standard GFCI electric plug outlets, and the "built-in" one on my fountains, it puts the product in very good shape to prevent any unwanted mishap>

Built-in safety feature:

I only have the pump's electric cord set above the fountain's water line on each and every fountain I have ever made. This is known as a "drip loop" which initially prevents water from running down the electric cord and into an electric wall outlet. All electric devices complex or simple for sustained use near water and/or outdoors advise using a Drip Loop, and these are no different. Water entering an outlet can cause a lot various problems and so is best negated by using a Drip Loop.


However, please use caution anyway where ever you may put it, because a fountain bowl can spill over, just like any other water bowl and cause problems!

***Since copper is an equally great metal and medium for Indoor and Outdoor use, all of the copper fountains are also equally good for indoor and outdoor use too, however: only Indoor Fountain Pumps are Included (at no retail mark-up in cost) with the Small and Medium Table Fountain Sizes. This makes their overall price more affordable for customers.

< Copper Phoenix Art/myself, does not currently carry Outdoor Pumps except for the Large Table, Large Scale, and Waterfall Sized Fountains and these are only available as included with your fountain and not for separate retail. >

PETS and Drinking from Fountain Water:

In all my years of working with copper and copper water features, never have I encountered a situation where someone's pet (including my own) was harmed by drinking from a fountain. However, that does not mean it could not happen, so the best suggestion is not to allow it if at all possible. (Buying a running water pet drinking bowl can be a good deterrent, if your pet is very interested in drinking from flowing fountain water.)

<Please use this information below as a marker for your discretion with your pets/animals.>

Upon receiving the fountain new, there is a thin layer of clear gloss metal paint finish on your fountain. This will slowly wear away from the constant flow of the water over the copper surfaces. Water erosion is a powerful force over time and so eventually the finish deteriorates where the water resides and flows, but since it is such a slow process it may be difficult to notice. There are many substances with in the metal finish (and eventual oxidation) that are not safe to ingest, and so removing them as they break down over time is the best thing to do, since once they are gone the metal finish constituents do not return unless they are added to the fountain again. Though the chemicals that compose the metal finish are infinitesimal they are not healthy for pets and so if this is a concern for you, please monitor that aspect and remove them when it begins to happen. (More specific Info about removal is in the "Metal Finish" section here in this care page).

Oxidation or patina naturally occurs on copper after the metal finish breaks down. This can amalgamate over time (varying periods but with long durations for build-up; and it adheres to the copper as a part of the copper, or i.e. a copper chemical changes) and this too, while also extremely small in form in and from water circulation, should not be ingested either, as a build-up of excessive copper within a living creature is unhealthy. However it can be difficult to keep some pets from them but at least in my experience the effects of such things are inconsequential, but I do not make or suggest using them for pets, and suggest avoiding it if you can. 
Though the metal can be eliminated, the patina will begin to evolve (yet be mainly isolated to where the water rests and flows and evaporates up from) but at the point of "patina growth" (which varies drastically depending on water type used and/or amount of time you run it - along with other factors) it can not hurt to rinse out your fountain if your kitty or dog (or other mammal) is determined to drink from it, and take a soft cotton cloth/rag and wipe away what you can, and then refill with water and start again. It can be cleaned further but this requires more work and effort and removing oxidation would be a perpetual need since the reaction itself will constantly occur. How often you need to do this depends on the other "time of use" aspects mentioned earlier in regard to "use and water type", but perhaps every 2-3 months.
Since that is all quite a lot to do, and often in this regard, I am being a bit extraneous and trying not split hairs, my best recommendation is to not let pets drink from it at all: especially when the patina develops in a thicker layer! But, stopping determined thirsty pets is a hard thing to do! However, take solace in the fact that copper is a very clean metal: historically though less in modern times now, all home (or business) places water was (often still is in various ways) delivered into the building primarily through copper pipes (done for reason's involving anti-rust aspects as much as antimicrobial reasons) and so, exposure to copper, (which is healthy in correct ratios, just like iron) is not a harmful factor in healthy animal biology. Comparatively, aquatic plants and aquarium fish, would not survive long in a copper based environment. Most of the time this info can suffice to be of help with this subject, but you can always consult a Veterinarian for professional help and specifics on this topic.  

<I love animals! so it's important to me to try to be helpful with sharing info in this regard so you can make the best choice for your situation and/or needs. (See attached picture of one of my Cats... however, he is nearly indestructible and was born with 18 lives!) Though I'm just kidding there, in my experience these issues are seldom -if at all- problems, yet I do not want anyone's pet being adversely affected if it can be avoided, but cannot alter copper fountains to negate these concerns, and so I hope this info is a useful resource to you in general.

Copper itself however, is a great receptacle for uses such as drinking, but such utilitarian copper pieces must be ones that are designed and manufactured for that purpose, and there are many such items on the market.>

Thanks for your business and enjoy your fountain and/or copper sculptural art!


[PLEASE NOTE: THIS DOES NOT CONSTITUTE NOR IS IT A SUBSTITUTE FOR LICENSED PROFESSIONAL ADVICE. I am an Artist yet nevertheless I care and intend this to be helpful in general to anyone.


Circuit breakers already add a layer of safety indoor and outdoors, and while all outside/outdoor electric outlets are bound in the U.S. to be GFCI/GFI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters/Ground Fault Interrupter) outlets making plugging in and using any electric appliance (even two wire hot and neutral cords that lack a dedicated ground wire) very safe indoor or outdoors, they are not full-proof, but drastically mitigate electrical problems, thus their inclusion everywhere outside and inside water areas, such as kitchen's and baths, ect. However, using an Indoor Only Pump outside is not recommended. Please use caution and prudence when using any electrical device, appliance, and/or tool and always first consult the manufacturer's information.

Checking and testing and maintaining your home or business GFCI outlets is a good rule to follow in general for using and operating any electric appliance or tool, regardless of indoor or outdoor cord type. Like any piece of hardware/material/parts these Plug Outlets can degrade over long periods of time and need attention. Consult an electrician or builder for more information specific in this capacity to your own needs or interests.

Finding a pump for outdoor use is recommended on the Small and Medium Table Sizes. An equivalent fountain GPH rate of water flow is best to achieve a similar water flow result in your fountain. A good brand on the small size table fountains is (use term below for internet searching) Beckett 40 GPH Outdoor Fountain Pump. As a substitute, Solar Pumps can work well too. These are most easily found online via various retailers.

I am sorry to say this, since this language is no fun but necessary: I do not assume any liability for any accident incurred with my products. I do not warranty fountains or offer protection against them getting damaged by/and/or any accidents along with not having responsibility for anyone hurting themselves or others, (including animals) with them. Buyer please beware as when purchased you assume any and all responsibility for such things.
HOWEVER, it is relatively thin but very safely expertly crafted metal, and as with ANY such thing anywhere, please handle them - or it - with care, cause they'll look great and last longer.

<Please read the pump manufacturer's included pump information. They label each pump too. I highly prefer their brand but they are a separate company with separate policies.>

This information is mostly intended to be of help to you in regard to safety and/or pump replacement and considering a purchase too.

- Though I do not add a warranty pumps for any period of time, I do include them at cost with no mark-up to all my customers. However, if possible and applicable I reserve the option to replace a pump if needed if it is found to be defective upon receiving it with your fountain. Please notify me about it at least 14 days after your purchase to make sure other pump trouble shooting has been considered and attempting before requesting a new pump to help mitigate the <time/cost> of replacing pumps that do not need to be replaced.

- All pump's are tested on each fountain in advance of being included with the fountain to help initially ensure they are in good operating shape before including and sending them with your item.


​Thanks for your business and enjoy your fountain and/or copper sculptural art!

(Anchor Menu in Process of being created. With  hyperlinks links to come...)

Page under construction: Simplified FAQ and videos on pump connecting to be added asap in due time